Baños and Quilotoa: A Backpacker’s Adventure in Ecuador

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Baños is a small town in central Ecuador, located in a valley between green hills, with waterfalls and a river.
If you feel like climbing mountains, trying rafting, zip-lining, bungee jumping and other attractions, or just relaxing and enjoying nature and the scenery Baños is the place for you.
On the way between Baños and Quito is Quilotoa, a stunning lagoon located inside a caldera.

The beautiful town of Baños is a few hours’ drive from Quito, and it can be visited on the way from Quito to Guayaquil or vice versa.
The town’s main landmark, which you cannot miss, is the waterfall Cascada de la Virgen, falling at the edge of the town.

Baños is also known for its hot springs in the surrounding area (natural water from volcanic mountains), but in my opinion they are a big disappointment: the pools are built, small, crowded.
Overall, in my opinion, they are less impressive than the fences in my country.

If you decide to go anyway, there are two main hot springs: the first is right inside the town near the waterfall (cannot be missed), the second, Balneario El Salado, is about two kilometers from town and can be reached on foot or by taxi.

The most famous attraction in Baños is the path that passes five waterfalls, with Pailón del Diablo being the most impressive.
The path is usually done by bicycle on the way there and hitchhiking back with a truck (cost two dollars).
Bicycle rental prices range from five to eight dollars per day.
It is worth checking before you start that the brakes work and the bicycle is in good condition.

Most of the path is downhill, so the ride is not difficult.
You leave the town to the main road heading east.
The path is signposted for each waterfall. The first waterfall is easy to miss, so be alert at the beginning.
You will have a right turn with a sign that reads in small letters Waterfall del Silencio.

Take the right until you reach the hut of an old man who will ask for one dollar. There are two waterfalls there (five-minute walk to each), then return to the main road and continue.
The rest of the waterfalls cannot be missed and are well marked.

Entrance to Pailón del Diablo waterfall costs two dollars.
There are two entrances: the farther one leads to a path that goes directly under the waterfall the power of the waterfall is amazing and worth it.
Be aware you will get wet.
The closer entrance leads to a viewpoint on a bridge above the waterfall.

Tips:

  • Leave relatively early stopping at each waterfall takes some time.
  • If it is sunny (or not), bring clothes you do not mind getting wet. The walk near the waterfall is rough.

La Casa de Arbol viewpoint
It is worth waiting for a sunny day
This is the best recommendation. Most of the time, there are clouds at this spot, which is also cool, but the view is amazing when the sky is clear.
The location is on the southern hill above the town, and it can be reached on foot or by public bus that runs three times a day at 11:00, 14:00, and 16:00.
There are buses back to town, but we hitchhiked, and there are also downhill paths on foot through the mountain.

The place itself is charming: a tidy grassy area with cool swings, impressive views, and an amazing observation of the Tungurahua volcano.
Entrance: two dollars.

Ecozoológico San Martín Zoo
A nice attraction if you have just arrived in Baños or want to fill time.
You may be surprised to find it is more than a small zoo.
There is a lion, tigers, snakes, tapirs, monkeys, jaguars, fish, and many bird species.
The cages are small, and the animals do not have much freedom.
The park is divided into two halves, and each half costs separately, totaling six dollars. To get there, find a taxi driver in town and ask to take you to the zoo a 10-minute drive.

Other attractions in Baños:

  • Rafting: prices are 15 to 25 dollars, river level 3. Rafting is not very challenging but fun.
  • Also: waterfall rappelling, Tarzan swings, zip-lining, bungee jumping from bridges, kayaking, day trips in the jungle, climbing Tungurahua volcano, day trek on El Altar volcano, and more.

Quilotoa Lagoon
Quilotoa Lagoon, inside a caldera (collapsed volcano crater), is located between Baños and Quito. There are organized tours from both locations, but it is possible and recommended to go independently.
The most common way to see the lagoon is a day trip to the viewpoint and a descent to the edge of the lagoon.
You can also do a three-to-four-day trek around the mountain passing through local villages.

To reach the lagoon independently, you need to go to Latacunga city (also a starting point for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo climbs).
A recommended hostel in Latacunga is Hostal Tiana, one block from the main square, with a kitchen, good WiFi, breakfast, and a good atmosphere.

From the main terminal in Latacunga, buses leave about every two hours to the lagoon viewpoint.
We arrived when there was no bus and caught another to the village under the lagoon, Zumbahua.
From there, vans take you up (both ways are similarly priced).

At the first viewpoint, the view is already impressive.
There are two day trip options: the first, simply descend a well-marked path directly to the lagoon the second, circle the lagoon along the crater edges, which takes six to eight hours of walking. Return to Latacunga the same way you came there is a bus from the village every half hour.

Secret Garden Hostel: Located in nature, about two hours from Quito / Latacunga.
One-day visits are possible, but staying two or three nights is recommended to explore the area.
The hostel organizes trips to waterfalls, volcanoes, and of course Cotopaxi. Contact the hostel in advance.

In the Baños / Latacunga / Quito area, there are many mountain climbing options, such as Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Carihuairazo, and Cayambe.

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