It is hard to believe that a country so wild, beautiful, and untouched still barely appears on most travelers’ maps.
Kyrgyzstan offers a rare combination of dramatic nature, living nomadic traditions, and warm hospitality preserved in surprising authenticity.
Those who embark on a trek in the heavenly mountains walk along green grassy paths next to turquoise lakes, meet herders in traditional yurts, and for a moment feel as if they have traveled back in time.
Kyrgyzstan is one of those countries whose name sounds distant and exotic and rightly so.
In the heart of Central Asia, between China, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan, lies a mountainous, impressive, and surprising country.
It is a land of snowy peaks and dramatic landscapes, clear lakes, endless green pastures and above all, a living nomadic culture that has survived the twists of time.
Despite its Soviet past and connections to neighboring republics, Kyrgyzstan has preserved a cultural uniqueness felt everywhere in the yurts scattered across the valleys, in local festivals, in warm hospitality, and in the traditional lifestyle of many residents.
In the capital and main centers, you will find English speakers, but most of the population does not speak English, so it is recommended to have a translation app.
The most common public transportation in the country is minibuses, which look like old vans.
In some cases, carrying a backpack may cost extra.
Taxis are a good and inexpensive option in the city, and there is an app similar to Uber very convenient.
If you want to travel quickly between cities, shared taxis from the main station are an option.
Trek Planning and Preparation
We arrived in Kyrgyzstan with full camping equipment to stay flexible with accommodation decisions.
We also arrived near the end of the season and did not know if the yurt camps would be open along all routes.
The treks we did and will describe are: Ala-Kul Lake basic trek, Northern Sary Mogul (Alay Range), and Southern Sary Mogul (Pamir Range).
All can be done without a tent if you are in season, as yurt camps are available along the way.
It is necessary to bring a water filter or purification tablets, as all treks are near streams and rivers.
The recommended season is June-September. Early in the season, some passes may be snow-covered and impassable, while late in the season it becomes very cold and yurt camps start to close around August 31.
Bishkek
Bishkek is the capital. Most travelers arrive and organize here, and from here it is possible to reach all regions of the country.
There is a central area with restaurants, supermarkets, and bars. Recommended hostel: Koisha, with private rooms and dorms, a large courtyard, and a travel atmosphere.
The hostel is slightly outside the city center but very close to the main minibus station and large market, where you can stock up on almonds, nuts, and dried fruit for treks.
Osh
Osh is a large city often used as a transit point between cities.
It can be reached by minibus, private taxi, or flight from Bishkek.
After a long shared taxi ride, we stayed one night in Osh.
We started the morning at a lovely cafe with breakfast and good coffee.
We also explored the park area and local markets, trying local dishes and looking for souvenirs and spices.
Sary Mogul
Sary Mogul is a village located between two massive mountain ranges, with the southern Pamir Range including the famous Lenin Peak bordering Tajikistan.
There are several hostels and guesthouses.
The village is relatively quiet and serves as a starting point for treks in the area.
Recommended accommodation: CBT guesthouse, small and intimate with private rooms and dorms, with hot water and good atmosphere.
Trek in the Pamir Range
The trekking area starts at an altitude of 3000 meters.
It is recommended to acclimatize before starting.
Initial hikes start about 25 km from Sary Mogul.
We took a ride from CBT, but it is also possible to walk.
Tulpar Lake is at 3500 meters. From there, treks continue to the Traveller’s Pass (4130 m) and Camp 1 (4400 m).
The optimal trekking plan after acclimatization is: first night at Tulpar Lake, second night at Camp 1, returning to Tulpar Lake on the third day.
Northern Alay Valley Trek
This trek can be done in 4-7 days. It starts from Sary Mogul and may include lifts from CBT.
The first day involves climbing to the Sary Mogul Pass, with stunning turquoise lakes and snowy mountains.
Camp at the first yurt camp or set up your tent.
Day two continues through Kosh Moynok Valley, passing small abandoned villages and green valleys.
Day three involves a steep climb to Sary Bel Pass and descending through a valley with red cliffs, ending near a small nature reserve.
Day four finishes the trek with the final climb to Jiptik Pass, then a descent back to the vehicle pickup point.
Karakol and Ala-Kul Trek
Karakol is a town east of Issyk Kul Lake, below the Tien Shan Range.
It is a good base for treks. Ala-Kul Lake is one of the most famous spots.
The trek can be done in various ways, from a day trip to 7-8 days.
Our trip included 4 days: starting from Jeti-Oguz to Teleti Pass, then Karakol Valley, Ala-Kul Lake, and finally Altyn Arashan.
The trek includes yurt camps, stunning mountain views, turquoise lakes, and opportunities to enjoy sunrise and sunset at the lake.
Issyk Kul Lake
This is the second largest mountain lake in the world after Lake Titicaca, and the second largest saltwater lake after the Caspian Sea.
Its size makes it appear like a sea.
After a strenuous trek or on sunny days, visiting the lake, particularly the Tosor Tocop village area, is highly recommended.
Accommodation at Yurt Camp Tosor Tonya offers yurts close to the water, quiet atmosphere, and mountain views.
Breakfast is included, with the option to pay for local dinner. Additional supplies should be brought in advance.
